Fashion IP in the Metaverse: Opportunities and risk

The next generation of the internet? IP is still a big player in the Metaverse.

For many of us, the metaverse may be a rather vague and distant concept.  It might even seem irrelevant in light of the “metaverse is over” narrative following Mark Zuckerberg/Meta’s change of direction in favour of artificial intelligence (‘AI’).

However, research published by UK-based company Metaversed Consulting in 2023 puts the number of monthly active users of the metaverse at 520 million people, a figure which has been steadily rising over the past few years.  Further, analysts at Bloomberg estimate that we could see a metaverse market worth $800bn by 2024.

Therefore, people – consumers – are interested in what the metaverse might have to offer in growing numbers.

For businesses, this means that the metaverse could offer new and as yet largely unexplored commercial opportunities that should not be overlooked.

After outlining some key terminology, this article explores the potential benefits of the metaverse (and Web 3.0 more generally) for businesses, and aims to highlight some of the intellectual property (‘IP’) considerations and risks associated with a move into this space for those in the creative industries.

Understanding the Metaverse and Web 3.0

A lot of people claim that the metaverse is the “next chapter” for the Internet, but what that actually means is difficult to define.

Essentially, the trajectory of the Internet from its infancy through to today is one of increasing richness – its capability has gone from text-only webpages (Web 1.0) to more detailed and engaging audiovisual content (Web 2.0). 

This pathway is now entering a new, more immersive phase (Web 3.0), where the boundaries between the physical world and the virtual world are being blurred.

Our present mode of interaction with the Internet centres on accessing content through pages and websites and, whilst it allows for some user-generated content, it is largely owned and controlled by big tech firms.

In contrast, Web 3.0 is predicted to be a decentralised version of the Internet where content is accessed via virtual spaces (collectively known as the metaverse), and where users have greater control and ownership over the content they create.

Alongside these developments are the use of blockchain, cryptocurrency, and non-fungible tokens (‘NFTs’), all of which facilitate the decentralisation of Web 3.0 by enabling direct transactions between users.

In particular, fundamental to Web 3.0 and the metaverse is blockchain, which is a type of ‘distributed ledger’ where transactions are recorded across a number of independent computers. 

Recording data in this way allows it to be viewed, shared and corroborated by anyone, and thus protects against one entity holding too much power (as in a centralised ledger).  This technology is thus well-suited to the decentralised nature of Web 3.0.

Blockchain technology is also used to record, store and track electronic transactions that take place in digital currencies (cryptocurrency, of which Bitcoin is a well-known example).

Finally, and crucially for the important ownership aspect of Web 3.0, NFTs are unique metadata files, tracked and verified using blockchain, that relate to a particular asset (physical or virtual) and enable the holder to exclusively own and control that asset.

Fashion and the Metaverse: Opportunities

The metaverse offers numerous potential benefits for those in the fashion industry, and a number of brands are already embracing these opportunities.

From the point of view of art, the metaverse provides considerable scope for creative freedom and innovation, since physical limitations surrounding the construction and wearability of garments, or the layout and capacity of a fashion show, no longer apply.

We can look to Metaverse Fashion Week (which took place in 2022 and 2023 on the Decentraland platform), where several major fashion labels including Balmain, Coach and Tommy Hilfiger launched experimental boutiques and shows for users to experience (technical issues notwithstanding). 

Whilst some brands stayed true to their real-world aesthetic, others embraced the ability to try something new – such as Dolce & Gabbana’s use of cat avatars to model clothing on the virtual catwalk, or Coach allowing avatars to enter and explore a giant version of their Tabby bag. 

These virtual spaces also allow for new collaborations between those working within and outside of the fashion industry, thereby facilitating innovation and productivity. 

Recent examples of digital collabs include luxury fashion house Gucci and Superplastic (a global entertainment brand specialising in limited edition designer toys, synthetic celebrities, and digital art) teaming up to create ‘SUPERGUCCI’, a series of ultra-limited NFTs featuring motifs from Gucci’s 2021 Aria collection accompanied with real-world ceramic equivalents, and the partnership between Balmain and Barbie to auction off three unique Barbie avatars wearing looks from the physical collection.

From the point of view of business, the metaverse allows fashion brands to reach new, younger audiences that will be the consumers of the future – research indicates that 83.5% of metaverse users are under the age of 18, with many of those being aged 13 or below – and to increase brand loyalty through more immersive and dynamic forms of engagement compared to traditional advertising.

Showcasing products in virtual spaces means that more consumers can be reached.  

In the two weeks it was available, the ‘Gucci Garden’ in virtual world Roblox (an exhibition “exploring and celebrating the house’s inimitable creative vision”) attracted over 20 million visitors – something few real-world venues could achieve in a fortnight. 

It is perhaps no coincidence that Gucci, one of the leading fashion houses embracing technology, is now the top luxury brand that Gen Z and Millennials say they want to own.

Finally, the exclusivity offered by NFTs increases demand and, in turn, prices.  For example, the world’s first digital-only dress, the unique ‘Iridescence’ dress designed by digital fashion house The Fabricant, sold at auction for $9,500 in 2019. 

This exclusivity also extends to other digital-only assets, such that they could become more desirable than physical goods (exemplified by the sale of a virtual Gucci Dionysus bag on Roblox in June 2021 for around $4,100, more than $700 over the price of its real-life counterpart).

As well as benefits for brands themselves, it is also worth highlighting the exciting environmental benefits of fashion in the metaverse.

The carbon footprint associated with digital clothing is significantly smaller than for physical clothing, which faces huge environmental challenges in terms of ethical sourcing of materials, intensive water usage, wastewater pollution, and unrecyclable materials, all of which are real-world problems that have no counterpart in the metaverse. 

Clearly virtual clothing is never going to entirely replace physical clothing, but the metaverse provides an outlet where people can express themselves in a way that does not have the same detrimental impact on the environment.

Fashion and the Metaverse: Risks

There are two sides to every story and, together with the potential benefits, there are also a number of possible IP pitfalls that brand owners should bear in mind.

Firstly, businesses may need to expand their trade mark portfolios (and watching services) to include virtual goods/services, since these are not covered by a registration for their real-world equivalents. 

Many brand owners have already taken this step, and we have seen numerous trade mark applications covering downloadable clothing, retail services connected with virtual goods, and virtual entertainment services filed by the likes of Louis Vuitton, Adidas and Zara.

At the time of writing, there is no cross-border consensus on how such goods/services are classified for the purposes of trade mark registration.

For instance, the UK IPO has published guidance saying that virtual goods, irrespective of their type, should be classified in Class 9, and that NFTs should be classified according to the underlying asset (i.e. Class 16 or 18 if the underlying asset is a piece of physical artwork or designer handbag).

However, the EU IPO’s approach currently appears to restrict inclusion of NFTs to Class 9, whilst a White Paper published by the International Trade Mark Association in April 2023 notes that there has even been talk of introducing an entirely new Nice Class for virtual goods/services.

In addition, there is some doubt over whether designs of virtual-only goods meet the legal definition of a registrable design in the EU (i.e., the appearance of “any industrial or handicraft item”). 

This is under review but, in the meantime, businesses might consider registering virtual goods as 3D trade marks (although this comes with its own complications, due to the legal requirement for a sign to be “distinctive”).

The EU IPO refused an application by Burberry to register its ‘check’ pattern as a trade mark for virtual clothing and accessories on the grounds that it lacks distinctiveness, since the pattern “is not markedly different from various basic patterns commonly used” for clothing/accessories. 

Brand owners should be aware that overcoming such objections with evidence of acquired distinctiveness could be challenging where the sign has not previously been used for such virtual goods, even if the sign has been used in the real-world for many years.

Crucially, even if a brand owner has no interest in the metaverse or offering virtual goods/services, it would be a mistake to ignore it completely. 

At a minimum, brand owners should look to buy potentially relevant Web 3.0/blockchain domains to avoid cybersquatting, and should be vigilant about what is being offered in virtual worlds to ensure that their IP rights are not being exploited.

The issue of enforcement

For brands that do not have any interest in the metaverse, and so have not expanded the scope of their trade mark portfolio accordingly, there remains uncertainty as to whether a trade mark for real-world goods can be relied on to prevent use for virtual goods.

Currently, the only guidance we have comes from the US case of Hermès v Rothschild, which concerned use of the sign ‘MetaBirkins’ to sell digital bags authenticated by NFTs.  In a win for brand owners, the jury upheld Hermès’ complaint, finding that use of ‘MetaBirkins’ for digital bags infringed Hermès’ trade marks rights to ‘Birkin’ in real-world bags.  

It remains to be seen how other jurisdictions might deal with this issue, whether the outcome would be different if the claimant’s trade mark does not enjoy a strong reputation, and if the logic would apply in reverse (i.e. could a virtual-only fashion brand prevent use of their trade marks for real-world clothing?).

Moreover, Web 3.0’s new means of sale (transferring NFTs rather than physical goods) potentially introduces new infringing activities.  For example, the US case of Nike v StockX, involving the sale of NFTs linked to Nike trainers on the resale market, calls into question whether NFTs for physical goods have a distinct value of their own, separate from those physical goods. 

Whilst Nike claims that the activity constitutes trade mark infringement, StockX asserts that it is no different to using Nike trade marks descriptively in a web-listing to sell the products (as in Web 2.0).

Finally, the importance of ownership within Web 3.0 could give rise to increased numbers of IP ownership disputes.

In particular, there is a key distinction to be drawn between owning an NFT linked to a digital asset on the one hand, and owning the copyright in that asset on the other. 

Typically, the author of the asset is the first copyright owner, and when a user buys the NFT they are being granted a licence by the copyright owner to use the work in a certain way. 

Therefore, owners should be clear on the effect of transferring an NFT, and buyers should read the terms of the licence so they understand what they can and cannot do.

Looking Ahead

Whilst there are a number of differences between the real and virtual worlds, ultimately, much is the same. 

Intended as it is to be a digital version of the real world, the long-term vision for the metaverse is one that allows us to easily blend our real and virtual selves on an everyday basis.

Though some legal principles may need to be adapted (e.g., the Canon similarity factors may not be suitable for comparing virtual and real-world goods and services), others could be readily applied to the digital environment (e.g., consumers’ recollection and perception of trade marks). 

Greater certainty will come, in time, as the case law evolves on the topic, just as it has for online enforcement issues arising from Web 2.0 developments.

In fact, our experience of Web 2.0 demonstrates the ability of brand owners and the law to deal with new commercial contexts – e-commerce, social media, search engine listings, to name a few. 

This knowledge provides grounds for optimism that the next phase of the internet, whatever form that takes, should be no different.

Authored by Alexandra Nott, a UK Chartered Trade Mark Attorney at Dehns
anott@dehns.com